Quick answer: scrap metal removal typically runs $65 for a small load up to $400+ for a full truckload on the South Shore, priced by volume, weight, and how many trips it takes — and it's priced differently than regular junk because metal is recyclable, and sometimes even worth cash, instead of just taking up landfill space. (We just answered the headline in one sentence. The real question is whether that rusted fence or dead water heater is actually worth hauling yourself.)
Every South Shore property eventually collects metal that doesn't belong with the regular trash — an old water heater in the basement, copper pipe pulled during a renovation, a chain-link fence nobody wants anymore, or a pile of rusted equipment that's been sitting behind the garage since the last owner moved out. Scrap metal isn't just "junk" to your town or to the state of Massachusetts — it's its own category, with its own rules and, sometimes, its own value. This guide covers what actually counts as scrap, why it's handled differently than household junk, what it costs, and when hauling it yourself turns into a worse deal than it looks.
What Makes Scrap Metal Different From Junk
"Junk removal" usually means furniture, boxes, old electronics — stuff headed for a transfer station, a donation center, or a landfill. Scrap metal removal is its own thing, because metal doesn't have to end up in any of those places. Steel, aluminum, copper, and iron can all be melted down and reused, which means a load of scrap isn't waste in the same sense a bag of household trash is — it's raw material with somewhere useful to go.
That's also why a lot of South Shore towns treat it separately. Quincy's DPW Yard, for example, is a seasonal residents-only drop-off specifically for scrap metal, recyclables, and yard waste — and its own posted rules explicitly say it does not take household trash. Braintree's Recycling Center accepts small amounts of scrap metal too, separate from the regular transfer station line. Private scrap yards across the South Shore (Brockton Iron and Steel, Spiegel South Shore Scrap, and others) exist for exactly this reason — they're not landfills, they're metal buyers.
What Actually Counts as Scrap Metal
More than people expect. The common categories:
- Appliances — water heaters, washers, dryers, refrigerators, stoves, AC units
- Plumbing — copper pipe, galvanized pipe, fixtures pulled during a renovation
- Fencing — chain-link, wrought iron, old gates and posts
- Automotive — car parts, rims, frames, old machinery with metal housings
- Structural steel — beams, rebar, railings, framing hardware from a demo or reno
- Rusted equipment — grills, mowers, swing sets, tools, old machinery
Scrap breaks into two broad types, and it's worth knowing the difference: ferrous metal (steel, iron — magnetic, heavy, and the lowest-value per pound) and non-ferrous metal (copper, aluminum, brass — not magnetic, and worth considerably more per pound). A rusted swing set is almost entirely ferrous. A coil of old copper pipe is non-ferrous and worth noticeably more.
Why It's Not Just "Junk" Under Massachusetts Law
This is the part most scrap metal articles skip entirely: Massachusetts has banned metal from landfill and combustion disposal since 2006, in the same rule that covers asphalt, brick, concrete, and wood. Per the MassDEP waste disposal ban guidance, any solid waste facility in the state has to pull banned materials out before disposal — metal legally has to be recycled, not buried.
There's a second rule that catches people off guard specifically with scrap appliances: anything with a working compressor — a fridge, a freezer, a window AC unit — still has refrigerant in it. Under the EPA's refrigerant recovery requirements, every ounce of that refrigerant has to be recovered by a certified technician before the unit is scrapped, recycled, or landfilled — and the EPA specifically names the scrap metal recycler as one of the parties on the hook for making sure it actually happens. Drag a 15-year-old fridge to a yard that skips this step and you're part of the problem, not just getting rid of one.
Sources: Mass.gov — MassDEP Waste Disposal Bans, EPA — Safe Disposal Requirements for Appliances Containing Refrigerant.
What Scrap Metal Removal Actually Costs
Typical scrap metal pickup starts around $65 for a small load, with general junk and debris hauling averaging closer to $150 (commonly $75-$375) once you're talking a half-truck or more. What actually moves the number:
- Volume and weight — a trunk's worth of pipe costs less than a full truckload of rusted equipment
- Number of pieces — ten small items takes more handling time than one big one
- Access — a basement water heater costs more to remove than one already at the curb
- Item type — appliances with refrigerant or hazardous residue cost more due to the compliance step above
Functional large appliances sometimes get picked up free, because they still carry resale or scrap value that offsets the labor. That's the whole philosophy here: you tell us what to toss, and we do all the heavy lifting — no separate quote trip, no guessing. We show up, look at the pile, give you a number on the spot, and haul it the same visit if the price works for you.
You point at the pile — the dead water heater, the fence posts out back, the transmission that's been sitting behind the garage since spring — and we do the lifting. No scale ticket, no second trip for the piece that wouldn't fit in the trunk.
Get a Free EstimateWhen a Scrap Yard Run Makes Sense
Not every piece of metal needs a crew. If it's a small, manageable load of higher-value non-ferrous metal — a box of copper pipe, some aluminum siding scraps, old brass fixtures — and you can lift it yourself into a car trunk or small trailer, driving it to a local yard like Brockton Iron and Steel, McConnell Enterprises, or Spiegel South Shore Scrap can actually put a little cash in your pocket. That's the one scenario where doing it yourself genuinely beats hiring it out.
When Calling a Pro Makes More Sense
Where self-hauling stops making sense is weight, awkward size, and what it does to your vehicle. A short-bed pickup is typically rated for around 1,500 pounds of payload, a standard bed closer to 2,500, and even a long bed tops out around 3,500 — and that's total, including anything else already in the truck. Scrap metal is deceptively heavy: a handful of steel beams, an old boiler, or a stack of rebar can blow past that number before the bed even looks full.
Overloading a truck isn't just a theoretical risk. It puts real strain on springs, shocks, axles, and tires, and can lead to a blowout or suspension failure on the highway — on top of possibly voiding your warranty if something breaks. A truck full of "free" steel isn't actually free once it's bent your leaf springs or split a tire on Route 3A.
Then there's the pieces that are just awkward, period — a cast iron tub, a full chain-link fence run, a dismantled shed's worth of framing hardware, structural beams too long to lie flat in a bed. Those need two people and the right straps and equipment, not a sedan trunk and a prayer. And if your pile mixes ferrous and non-ferrous metal, a DIY run often means multiple trips to multiple yards just to get paid fairly — time that usually costs more than the scrap is worth.
Does Scrap Metal Actually Have Value?
Sometimes, and it depends heavily on the type. As of mid-2026, clean copper has been trading roughly $4.35-$5.59 per pound and aluminum around $0.50-$0.86 per pound — real money for a decent-sized load. Steel, by contrast, trades for only cents per pound despite being the heaviest and most common scrap metal by volume. That's why a pile of rusted rebar isn't worth a special trip, but a coil of old copper pipe might be.
This is also where a professional haul earns its keep: a crew that already has relationships with local yards sorts ferrous from non-ferrous for you, so you're not stuck figuring out what's worth a drive and what's just taking up space in your garage.
Related Services
Scrap metal rarely shows up alone. A garage cleanout almost always turns up old tools, rusted equipment, and forgotten car parts alongside everything else. If you're also dealing with paint, chemicals, or fuel mixed in with the metal, that's a separate category covered in our hazardous waste removal guide — scrap metal and household hazardous waste get handled differently, and it's worth knowing which is which before anything goes in a truck. For a broader breakdown of what drives the final number on any hauling job, see how junk removal pricing actually works, or check our full list of hauling and debris removal services for everything else we cover.
Related Guides
- Appliance removal — refrigerant recovery before an old appliance becomes scrap
- Construction debris removal — for rebar, pipe, and structural steel from a job site
- Fence & playset removal — where old chain-link and metal swing sets end up
Areas We Serve
We handle scrap metal and debris removal across the South Shore, including:
Frequently Asked Questions
Is scrap metal removal the same as junk removal?
Not exactly. Scrap metal is recyclable and sometimes has resale value, so it's handled as its own category rather than general household trash. A lot of South Shore towns and private scrap yards take it separately, and Massachusetts actually bans metal from being landfilled at all.
How much does scrap metal removal cost?
Typical scrap metal pickup starts around $65 for a small load and can run $150-$400+ for a full truckload, depending on volume, weight, and how many pieces are involved. Some functional large appliances are removed free since they still have resale value.
What counts as scrap metal?
Old appliances like water heaters, washers, and fridges, plumbing like copper and galvanized pipe, chain-link or wrought iron fencing, car parts, structural steel and rebar from a renovation, and rusted equipment like grills, mowers, and tools all count as scrap metal.
Can scrap metal go in a regular dumpster?
Small amounts mixed in with other debris are usually fine, but a dumpster full of pure metal wastes capacity you're paying for by volume. For a large amount of metal alone, separate scrap removal or a scrap yard run is the more cost-effective option.
Will a scrap yard actually pay me for my metal?
Sometimes. Non-ferrous metals like copper, brass, and aluminum pay noticeably more per pound than ferrous metals like steel and iron, which trade for just cents a pound despite weighing the most. A small load of clean copper pipe can be worth a trip; a pile of rusted rebar usually isn't.
Do you remove old refrigerators and AC units?
Yes. Appliances with refrigerant need the refrigerant professionally recovered before they're scrapped under EPA rules, which is exactly the kind of detail a DIY scrap run can accidentally skip.
What if the metal is too heavy or awkward to move myself?
That's when calling a crew makes the most sense. Structural steel, cast iron tubs, old boilers, and loaded truck beds can easily exceed what a pickup is rated to carry safely, which risks suspension damage, blown tires, or a dangerous drive to the yard.